Ten days of vacation in the middle of a long journey – doesn’t that sound a bit odd? And yet, Bali turned out to be the perfect stopover. This island sits right between China, where we’ve just spent a month, and Darwin, our gateway to Australia. A paradise island conveniently on our route. Even better: flights between Bali and Darwin are direct, so in just 2 hours and 20 minutes, we’ll be in Australia, no layovers required.
All of this convinced us to take a short break here on this dreamlike island. A pause that, to be honest, has almost become a tradition for us: this is the third time we’ve unpacked our bags in Bali during a longer trip.
Bali is just one of Indonesia’s 17,000 islands, but it has something truly unique. It’s not just because of its postcard-perfect beaches or its endless, lush green rice fields – though those are stunning, rest assured. No, what makes this island magical is its soul.
The Soul of Bali: A Fragile Balance Between Nature, Humanity, and the Divine
Hinduism reigns in Bali, at the heart of a predominantly Muslim country, but it’s not just about religion. Here, it’s a way of life, a delicate balance between tradition and spirituality. It’s something that’s hard to put into words because this way of thinking is so different from our Western routines. You have to experience it to understand it – and no, not from the comfort of a five-star hotel.
The Balinese don’t see nature as just a backdrop to their daily lives. To them, nature is a living entity they coexist with. Everything in their environment is sacred: the sun that lights their days, the trees that provide shade, the wind, and the tides. Nature here is at the center of everything and is perceived as a manifestation of the divine.
Each morning, they place offerings in front of their homes, in temples, and even by the roadside. These small, woven baskets filled with flowers, rice, and incense honor the gods while maintaining the delicate balance between the forces of good and evil. It’s a way to show gratitude and a reminder that harmony between humans and nature is precious – a concept that we Europeans may have forgotten a little too often.
The temples, the spiritual hearts of every Balinese community, pulse with the rhythm of ceremonies and religious festivals.
We were fortunate enough to attend a full moon ceremony in a small local temple. It was beautifully decorated with white and yellow cloths and lit by lanterns and candles. The worshippers, dressed in elegant sarongs, brought offerings: pyramids of fruit, flowers, and pastries. The entire ceremony was steeped in chants, mantras, and the mesmerizing sounds of the gamelan, the traditional Balinese orchestra.
Perhaps that’s Bali’s secret: its ability to weave an unbreakable bond between humanity, nature, and the divine.
Return to Bali: Between Wonder and a Hint of Disappointment
I’ve mentioned it before: this is our third visit to Bali. This time, we explored three main areas.
Ubud: When Enchantment Meets the Crowds
Fifteen years ago, Suzanne and I fell in love with Ubud. A peaceful little town surrounded by rice fields, it felt like a haven of serenity where time moved slower. But today, let’s be honest, Ubud is not quite the same.
Tourism has completely transformed the city. The traffic is terrible – there’s just one narrow road from Denpasar – and hotels and restaurants have sprung up everywhere. To be fair, I hardly recognized the place that once captivated us.
But let’s not be too harsh. Ubud is still an excellent base for exploring the area, the food is divine, and the accommodations offer unbeatable value for money. Most importantly, this first stop was filled with precious moments spent with our friend Naomi, who joined us for a few days.
It’s also here that our senses reawakened to Bali, almost like rediscovering this fascinating island: the vibrant green rice fields, traditional dances (we saw the Kecak dance, which tells an epic tale involving gods, hunters, and monkeys), and the kindness of the Balinese people.
Just Me and the Kids: Freedom on a Motorbike
After four days spent as a group of five, it was just Matteo, Nola, and me. Suzanne left for a week with Naomi, and I seized the opportunity to escape the tourist zones. We headed to the mountains of central-northern Bali and the island’s western coast, where Bali reveals a different side of itself.
For this adventure, I rented a motorbike. Now, let’s be real: no reasonable Western adult would ride a motorbike with two kids in Bali. But here, it’s perfectly normal. I could try to convince you it’s not dangerous… but let’s be honest, it kind of is.
Balinese traffic is organized chaos, an improvised ballet where scooters and cars brush past each other in a dance without rules, overtaking on both the left and the right. Matteo, clinging to the front, Nola holding on behind me, and a backpack strapped to the rear – that was our crew.
With bumpy roads and the suffocating heat (or as Nola describes it, “a giant hairdryer pointed at us”), every ride demanded constant focus. And then there was the moment when Matteo, carefree as always, fell asleep. Every bump jolted him awake, and the bike wobbled dangerously. Not great for my nerves, but hey, it’s all part of the adventure!
Despite everything, the sense of freedom that comes with a motorbike is unmatched. We could squeeze through anywhere, take paths inaccessible by car, and stop whenever and wherever we wanted – it was magical.
Our week began in the mountains of Munduk, an enchanting spot with waterfalls, temples, and cooler temperatures.
Then, we made our way to the northern coast, where we experienced an unforgettable moment: three hours on a small boat, watching dolphins. The boat had little side platforms where we could dive in to see the dolphins underwater. Matteo, Nola, and I were mesmerized. The dolphins seemed to play with us, and needless to say, it was pure magic!
Our final stop was western Bali, a region I was eager to explore. Here, far from mass tourism, the vibe is more relaxed, almost backpacker-like. The beaches are stunning, and it’s also home to the island’s only national park, Bali Barat. While the region itself is beautiful, the park left me a bit underwhelmed. Sure, seeing deer in the water, black monkeys, and mangroves was interesting, but it felt a bit pricey for what it offered (at least by Balinese standards, even if those are still modest).
The Race Against Time
This week was intense, balancing activities and homeschooling for the kids – juggling both is no small feat. Just when I thought I had everything under control, an email from the airline turned everything upside down: our flight was departing at 9 a.m., not 9 p.m. as planned! In a mad rush, I returned the motorbike, packed our bags, and found a taxi.
The next day, we reunited with Suzanne at the airport. The family was whole again, ready for our next adventure: Australia!
Indonesia is much more than just Bali. But for me, Bali remains an essential stop. Unique (hopefully, you get that by now), offering incredible value for money, and home to some of the kindest people you’ll ever meet.
Sending you all our love!
365 days of summer 